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Group of 1 to 2 people for a private outing
A classic route on a very aesthetic spike
Originally named Aiguille du Pain de Sucre and rumoured to be unclimbable, it became Aiguille Dibona as a tribute to an Italian climber from the Dolomites, who climbed it for the first time with his partners in 1913. From the path leading up to the Soreiller mountain hut, the sight of this granite spike proudly standing at the heart of a rock amphitheater is truly awe-inspiring. The Savoyards route was opened by Pierre Chapoutot and Bernard Wyns in 1976 and is still equipped in a traditional way. It is a great classic and a stunning climb, part of the history of climbing in the Ecrins range. The proximity of the hut, the excellent quality of rock, the large number of routes, a good exposure, a safe equipment: no wonder the cirque du Soreiller is a climbing hotspot.
You should be able to climb up to 6a (5.10a) as a follower. You know how to tie your knots and belay. You may have the opportunity to lead or not. We will be happy to teach you. If you don't know how to rappel, we will teach you.
You should be able to hike around 30 minutes while carrying a backpack (5 to 10 kilos). The approach might require uphill walking. Endurance and strength are needed to be able to climb around 150 meters (500 feet) with some sections of vertical rock.
The hike starts from the little hamlet of les Etages located between Saint Christophe en Oisans and la Bérarde in the Vénéon valley. The path winds gradually up and narrows at some point before reaching the cirque du Soreiller. The sudden sight of the Aiguille Dibona is astonishing... We quietly pursue our hike and eventually reach the mountain hut.
1100m vertical from les Etages to the Soreiller mountain hut (2719m) - between 2 and 3 hours.
Night in the hut.
From the Soreiller mountain hut, we quickly reach the base of the magnificent south face. And here we go for 9 pitches and a 300-meter climb! The route first avoids a flat steep slab on the left part of the face. Then it horizontally follows a line of roofs to reach a long dihedral almost until the Boell ledge. We continue our climb, cracks alternating with dihedrals. The final pitches are easier and the same as those of the other routes. The summit of the Dibona is quite exposed and the view is simply breathtaking. Two rappels on the north face and a rocky path will bring us back down to the mountain hut.
300m vertical - 15 minutes of approach walk then between 4 and 6 hours of climbing.