EXPERIENCE Rock climbing and Multipitch

Aiguille Dibona (3131m), Savoyards route

A classic route on a very aesthetic spike

Originally named Aiguille du Pain de Sucre and rumoured to be unclimbable, it became Aiguille Dibona as a tribute to an Italian climber from the Dolomites, who climbed it for the first time with his partners in 1913. From the path leading up to the Soreiller mountain hut, the sight of this granite spike proudly standing at the heart of a rock amphitheater is truly awe-inspiring. The Savoyards route was opened by Pierre Chapoutot and Bernard Wyns in 1976 and is still equipped in a traditional way. It is a great classic and a stunning climb, part of the history of climbing in the Ecrins range. The proximity of the hut, the excellent quality of rock, the large number of routes, a good exposure, a safe equipment: no wonder the cirque du Soreiller is a climbing hotspot.

HOW DIFFICULT WILL THE TRIP BE?

Intermediate

You should be able to climb up to 6a (5.10a) as a follower. You know how to tie your knots and belay. You may have the opportunity to lead or not. We will be happy to teach you. If you don't know how to rappel, we will teach you.


WHAT LEVEL OF PHYSICAL FITNESS DO I NEED?

Moderate

You should be able to hike around 30 minutes while carrying a backpack (5 to 10 kilos). The approach might require uphill walking. Endurance and strength are needed to be able to climb around 150 meters (500 feet) with some sections of vertical rock.


WHAT WILL HAPPEN ON EACH DAY?

Day 1

The hike starts from the little hamlet of les Etages located between Saint Christophe en Oisans and la Bérarde in the Vénéon valley. The path winds gradually up and narrows at some point before reaching the cirque du Soreiller. The sudden sight of the Aiguille Dibona is astonishing... We quietly pursue our hike and eventually reach the mountain hut.

1100m vertical from les Etages to the Soreiller mountain hut (2719m) - between 2 and 3 hours.

Night in the hut.

 

 

Day 2

From the Soreiller mountain hut, we quickly reach the base of the magnificent south face. And here we go for 9 pitches and a 300-meter climb! The route first avoids a flat steep slab on the left part of the face. Then it horizontally follows a line of roofs to reach a long dihedral almost until the Boell ledge. We continue our climb, cracks alternating with dihedrals. The final pitches are easier and the same as those of the other routes. The summit of the Dibona is quite exposed and the view is simply breathtaking. Two rappels on the north face and a rocky path will bring us back down to the mountain hut.

300m vertical - 15 minutes of approach walk then between 4 and 6 hours of climbing.

490.0 €

This Price is for a maximum number of participants: 2

Make An Enquiry

Group of 1 to 2 people for a private outing

INCLUDED

Outing with a certified mountain guide or instructor

Professional Civil Liability Insurance

Group technical gear (rope…)

NOT INCLUDED

Personal Accident Insurance

Appropriate clothing for your activity and the weather

Water Bottle or thermos, food and snacks

backpack (around 35L)

sun glasses, cap and sun cream

helmet

harness

Climbing shoes

Lodging costs for clients and guide

Meal costs for clients and guide

Small first aid kit for your personal needs and that contains material in case of blisters

Sleeping bag liner (to be used with the provided blankets at the refuges) and small toiletry kit (no showers in the refuge)

Contact Us

Address

Rn 1091 place du téléphérique,
05320 la grave France

Phone Number

+33 476 799 021