A major climb on an iconic summit of the Alps
The ascent of La Meije by the Promontoire mountain hut, followed by the ridge traverse to the Doigt de Dieu, is the dream of many alpinists and a consecration for most of them. La Meije, the last major summit of the Alps to remain unconquered… More than a century after its first ascent in 1877 by Boileau de Castelnau & Gaspard and his son, it is undoubtedly one of the most prominent climbs of the Alps. A subtle mix of mountaineering skills contributes to its success: the sense of the itinerary, the ability to progress quickly, a good amount of determination and commitment, the preparation and choice of the right moment… The traverse of La Meije is a mythical climb: there starts the great alpinism.
Day 1
The starting point of this outstanding climb is the village of La Grave, from which we take the first section of the Téléphérique des Glaciers de La Meije up to 2400m. From there, we hike up to the base of the Enfetchores ridge and climb it to reach the Meije glacier in a stunning environment. A short hike on this glacier leads us to a bergschrund. We cross it and continue our climb on a rocky part up to the Brèche de la Meije (3357m). Switching to the south side, we climb down, possibly making a short rappel to set foot on the glacier. It does not take long to cross it and reach the Promontoire mountain hut, nestled in the imposing rock wall of the south face of La Meije.
1300m vertical to the Promontoire mountain hut (3092m)- between 4 and 5 hours.
Night in the hut.
Day 2
The ascent starts immediately from the Promontoire mountain hut. We climb the first part by night and at dawn, we stand at the base of the Castelnau wall. Sections filled with history alternate, such as the Dalle des Autrichiens and the Pas du Chat. Shortly after, we reach the ledge of the Carré glacier. We hike it up and get to the breach at the foot of the west ridge of the Grand Pic. The climb becomes exposed, especially during the crossing of the famous Cheval Rouge allowing us to reach the final ridge. The terrain becomes less steep and there we are, eventually standing on the summit of the Grand Pic! The sight of the next ridges we will climb is simply breathtaking! The traverse of these ridges starts with the descent of the Grand Pic: we climb and rappel it down to reach the Zsigmondy breach. We get to a section equipped with cables allowing us to climb around the first Dent. It is a fairly long and physical part, during which we can feel the altitude. Back on the ridges, the climb becomes easier. We reach the renowned Doigt de Dieu (3973m), a miracle of balance and the starting point of a short descent leading to the Tabuchet glacier. It is always a magical moment when the Aigle mountain hut is in sight. We stop there for a while to contemplate its magnificent setting. There is still a long way to go back down to the Romanche river but it does not really matter. We just completed an outstanding climb between heaven and earth!
900m vertical to the Grand Pic and 200m along the ridges – between 7 and 10 hours to the Aigle mountain hut. Then 3 hours from the hut down to la Grave.
Outing with a certified mountain guide or instructor
Professional Civil Liability Insurance
Group technical gear (rope…)
Personal Accident Insurance
Lift Pass (possibility to purchase at the Guide Office in the morning)
Water Bottle or thermos, food and snacks
helmet
harness
Mountain boots that work with crampons
Classic mountaineering ice axe. Crampons with ANTI-SNOW system that fit your mountaineering boots.
backpack (around 35L)
Club Alpin ID card, insurance card or information, Alpine Club card (if you have one)
Picnic for during the day
Lodging costs for clients and guide
Sleeping bag liner (to be used with the provided blankets at the refuges) and small toiletry kit (no showers in the refuge)
Meal costs for clients and guide
Small first aid kit for your personal needs and that contains material in case of blisters
Appropriate clothing for your activity and the weather
Regular and varied mountaineering practice allows you to tackle technical and demanding routes: the most beautiful adventures are within your reach and we are here to share intense and magical moments with you.
You must be in very good physical shape. You should frequently practise endurance sports such as walking, cycling, running, swimming, etc. You should be able to comfortably undertake one or more long days of sport, carrying a rucksack weighing around 10 kg.