Têtes de Sainte Marguerite (2796m/9,173ft)

The Têtes de Sainte Marguerite are actually two summits, the Tête Sud culminating at 2796 meters (9,173ft) and the Tête Nord at 2676 meters (8,779ft). Overlooking the ski resort of Monetier les Bains, they are located in the Guisane valley behind the Lautaret pass. They have a magnificent view over the surrounding peaks of the Ecrins massif, and are an ideal playground for winter alpinism, especially the gullies that offer climbs on mixed terrain in a wild high mountain environment. This area has multiple one-day possibilities, with gullies of all technical levels. We reach this sector after a one-hour approach walk, after having crossed the Guisane river and hiked up the small valley of the Petit Tabuc. We have the choice between different lines: ‘Canaille de gauche’ (3+) or ‘Canaille de droite’ (3+) are the easiest gullies, while ‘Parfum d’Oisans’ (4), ‘Grassi’ (4) and ‘Mongolito’ (4+) require a greater level of experience and commitment. All of these magnificent itineraries are located in the same area and north-oriented. Each of them give us the opportunity to learn the basics of ice climbing or to push our own limits in this fascinating world of ice and in the wild atmosphere of the Petit Tabuc valley.

Grade: between 3+ and 4+

Vertical: between 300m (984ft) and 450m (1476ft)